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The large dark-hued building with four statues of the goddess of medicine – with the snake in her hand – is Ferrein's Pharmacy.
Muscovites still call the building at No. 21 Nikolskaya street “Ferrein's Pharmacy” or “Apteka No. 1” - although it's not been a pharmacy for years now. Yet once it was the best-known pharmacy in Moscow. During the mid-C19th they used to dispense up to 50,000 prescriptions per year here. In those days it was one of the three busiest pharmacies in the world! They had their own stores and laboratories here too.
What was later called “Apteka No. 1” opened in 1862 under the direction of prominent Muscovite Carl Ivanovich Ferrein. The pharmacy quickly won the confidence and business of Muscovites. However, after the events of 1917 the Ferrein family fled Moscow in haste, leaving everything behind – the pharmacy, their plantations of pharmaceutical herbs in Crimea and Moscow Region, & their pharmaceutical factories. Yet Apteka No. 1 carried on working, even without its original owner. Nowadays there's a restaurant and shops on the premises. If viewed from Teatralny Proezd street it looks a little like a renaissance castle.
Kitay-gorod is one of the oldest parts of Moscow. It appeared nearby the old wooden Kremlin. Although the name translates as “Chinatown,” it probably derives from kita (wattle), referring to the wall that surrounded this early Kremlin suburb. Today, remains of an old city wall and colorful churches are scattered throughout this ancient neighborhood.
The stone walls were erected in the 16th century by an Italian architect known under the name Petrok Maly and originally featured 13 towers and six gates. They were as thick as they were high. The last of the towers were demolished in the 1930s, but small portions of the wall still stand. One of two remaining parts of the wall is located in Zaryadye and the other near the exit from the Okhotny Ryad station of Moscow Metro behind the Hotel Metropol.
Kitay-gorod starts at Red Square. Apart from Red Square, the quarter is bordered by the chain of Central Squares of Moscow, notably Theatre Square (in front of Bolshoi Theatre), Lubyanka Square (in front of the KGB headquarters), and Slavyanskaya Square.
Since time immemorial Kitay-gorod has been developing as a trading area. And for centuries it was known as the most prestigious business area of Moscow. Its three main streets — Varvarka, Ilyinka, and Nikolskaya — are lined with banks, shops, and storehouses. There are also lots of historical buildings that relate to the heritage of the federal and global importance now.
In our tour you will walk along Nikolskaya Street that is famous for being the site of Moscow's first university, the Slavic Greek Latin Academy, housed in extant Zaikonospassky monastery (1660s). Another monastery cathedral, the main church of Epiphany Bogoyavlensky Monastery (1690s), is the oldest male monastery in Moscow, stands in the middle of Kitay-gorod in the eponymous Bogoyavlensky Lane. The 18th century survives in the exterior walls of the otherwise rebuilt Gostiny Dvor (Guest Merchant's Court) by Giacomo Quarenghi.
A whole quarter of Kitay-gorod adjacent to the Moskva River and known as Zaryadye (now just Varvarka Street) was demolished in the 20th century, sparing only those structures that were classified as historic monuments. These include the Cathedral of the Sign (1679–84), the Church of All Saints (1680s), St. George's Church on Pskov Hill (1657), St. Maksim's Church (1698), St. Anna's Church at the Corner (1510s), St. Barbara's Church (1796–1804), the Old English Embassy (1550s), and the 16th century Romanov boyar residence. The two last are the museums. You can visit them to see the life of the first Romanovs in the 16-17th centuries.